Feedback Friday

                  

                                    Setting Up Shop

      Welcome to feedback Friday. It's that time of the week again when I answer your questions. I will answer 1 question each Friday. You may ask questions in the comment box or email me at 2monicawheeler@gmail.com. And remember, there are no dumb questions.

      So here we go.

Today's question is from Kelly. She ask............

                 "Could you give me a close estimate on a start up cost for putting a spa room together? And is there a website that might have a list that would include equipment, products, linens etcetera for putting together a treatment room?"

 

           The cost of starting a business is always more than we want to spend. Especially knowing that we will not get the investment back for awhile. At least until you are able to build a clientele, and that takes time. 

          

             You're set up cost will depend upon the services that you are planning to offer. 

So let's say you will be offering these services. Facials, Microdermabrasion, Chemical Peels, Waxing, and Makeup. 

             For your facials you will need a facial bed with a stool, a steamer, and a magnifying lamp. And if you plan to offer galvanic and high frequency during your facials, then you would need to purchase a full system. This system is referred to as an 8 in 1, because you are able to perform 8 services with the 1 machine. You will need a towel warmer, a trolley for supplies, a wax pot and supplies. The cost for this equipment if purchased individually could run around $2000.00. The first time I set up a spa we purchased everything individually. The second time we set up a spa we purchased a spa package, which cost around $1500.00.  

               For your microdermabrasions of course will need a microdermabrator. These can cost anywhere from $200.00 to $10,000.00. I have one of each. The less expensive microdermabrator is a decent piece of equipment. You are able to give a good treatment with it. Mine is not very old so I can't say how long it will last.  But for the quality, $200.00 is a good price. The more expensive microdermabrator is a much heavier machine. It has a bigger motor with higher settings and more abrasive tools. It is medical grade and used by physicians. It's my favorite. I have had a few of my graduates purchase the less expensive machine and they are very happy with it. I suggest that you start with the $200.00 machine.

                   Products, linen, and all consumables ( supplies used for day to day services ), will be around $250.00. 

                   So let's see how much we've spent so far. $1500.00 for bed and set up. $200.00 for a microdermabrator. $250.00 for products and supplies. The total is $1950.00. This is a conservative figure but doable.

                      There are 2 resources that I like and use often. The first is an online retailer. I use them for my equipment purchases, and they have great package deals. It's simply Spa and Equipment. Their website is www.spaandequipment.com. The second one is Universal Spa Supply. This is who I use to order all of my consumable supplies. Sally's Beauty Supply is also an inexpensive  place to purchase supplies.

                    So we have a basic total of $1950.00. But you can find deals when companies are having a sale. One thing that I have learned,  when I  come up with an estimated total, then I need to double that figure and I will come closer to what it's actually going to cost me. 

              Sometimes around the farm here, a tool or a piece of equipment will break and we need to replace it. When I ask my husband how much the tool or piece of equipment cost. His answer is often," whatever you want to pay". This always aggravates me because I still have no idea as to what it should cost. What he is telling me is that I can pay a little or a lot.

Depending on the quality and brand. At the risk of aggravating you Kelly,  ultimately it's whatever you want to pay. 

                I hope this helps. And....... HAPPY SHOPPING.

The Subcutaneous Layer

The Fat Layer

     The third layer of skin is the subcutaneous layer. It lies just under the epidermis and the dermis. The subcutaneous layer is 80% fat. This fat helps to protect and insulate the body.

      The fat in the subcutaneous layer also helps to give us the smooth skin we all desire.

Fat Is Where It's At

      Think about something with me. Have you ever seen an overweight lady with wrinkles? Probably not. Most all overweight ladies have full, smooth faces. There is no need for them to stop in at their local dermatologist office for injections, they have smooth, contoured skin from the fat in the subcutaneous layer. Now think about something else. Have you ever noticed that when a lady looses a lot of weight her skin is very loose and wrinkled. That's because she no longer has that self made filler that keeps her skin contoured and smooth. This is why most plastic surgeons do not want to give a lady a rhytidectomy (a face lift) if she is in the process of losing weight, until she has lost all of the weight that she plans to. The plastic surgeon wants to be sure and remove all of the loose, excess skin. 

           The subcutaneous layer helps to cushion us when we fall and also protects our inner organs. Keep in mind that like everything else in the body, the subcutaneous layer decreases and thins with age.
      The facts and functions of the subcutaneous layer are short and sweet, but are no less important than the epidermis and the dermis.

  Why Study The Layers Of The Skin?

     . The skincare industry is constantly changing. The composition of the skin never will. Understanding the layers of the skin will help you have more confidence when choosing skincare products and treatments. As we continue forward, I hope that you will also begin to understand how the aging process, sun exposure, hormones and other factors affect these layers which ultimately affects the skin's health and appearance.

      

      

The Dermis

The Dermis... The Second Layer Of Skin.

      The dermis is your true layer of skin, it lies just below the epidermis. It is much thicker than the epidermis. This layer is where the most important functions of the skin are performed. One of the functions of the dermis is protection. Your skin is a barrier against outside elements such as bacteria.

      Think of your skin as a shield or mantle. Clinicians refer to it as the acid mantle. This mantle is made up of oil, fat, sweat, and water. Think of a knight and his shield. His shield protects him from arrows that could cause harm and threaten his life. Do you think it is wise for him to neglect the care of that shield? Now I am not saying that neglecting the health of your skin could threaten your life. But taking care of your skin ( your acid mantle ), keeps it from drying out and keeps germs from coming in.

      There are other skin functions that the dermis contributes to. Sensitivity to touch and pressure, heat and cold regulation, aiding in sweat and oil production, and absorption of nutrients necessary for healthy skin, like water and oxygen.

pH..... Potential Hydrogen

      I think it's safe to assume that if you are reading this post that you are familiar with the pH of the skin. You've heard of it. But do you understand it? 

      The skin's pH ( potential hydrogen ) is important. If it becomes unbalanced we loose our protection. Most everyone that has oily skin, doesn't want oily skin. So they buy harsh cleansers and toners to use on their skin to remove the oil. They do not realize that they are stripping away the skin's natural protection barrier which leaves their pH unbalanced. The next thing they know is that for some reason or another, their skin is either getting more oily or becoming sensitive. 

      Client #1     Client #1 has oily skin and is using harsh cleansers that are stripping the oil away to aggressively. She goes to her Esthetician and complains that her skin is becoming more oily. Do you know why this is happening? Her skin is trying to compensate for the loss of oil by producing more oil for replacement. It becomes a crazy cycle that keeps  going around and around.

      Client #2     Client #2 has oily skin.  But she also is a product junkie. She loves products. When a new product is advertised, she's going to try it. If her  friend has found a product and loves it, she's going to try it. Her way of thinking is, " If a little works then I'll use more."  She over cleanses and over exfoliates until not only is her skin dry, it's also sensitive.

     Client #1 is stripping her skin of it's natural oil and drying it out. Client #2 is stripping her skin of it's natural oil, drying it out, along with removing the protective layer of skin. Both clients are disrupting the skins natural balance of acid and alkaline, the skin's pH.

      Collagen and Elastin

      Collagen and elastin are found in the dermis.  If you listen to the commercials for skincare products and  the selling pitches, then you know that products and treatments are promising to restore collagen and elastin. So what's the big deal?  I'll tell you. 

      Collagen is the substance that gives the skin it's strength. It also has the ability to hold large amounts of water. By holding water in the cells it puts tension into the skin. When there is tension in the cells, the tone of the skin is increased. But if collagen is damaged, then the skin looses its tone and firmness, which leaves the skin loose and dryer. And when skin is dry, it is aging. 

      Elastin is what gives the skin its ability to stretch. Picture a rubber band. When it is new,  and we stretch it, the rubber band pops right back. But after much use it doesn't pop back as quickly as before. Our skin is like a rubber band. As we age our skin will loose its ability to pop back. Damage to the elastin is the primary cause of sagging, wrinkles and aging of the skin.

 Healthy Lifestyles

        Unhealthy lifestyles can compromise the dermis and its ability to function properly.  Collagen and elastin are broken down when we make unhealthy lifestyle choices.  I hope that you are starting to see how a healthy lifestyle can make a great difference in your skin. All of the functions of the dermis can be affected with your choices.  Sun exposure  without protection can harm the dermis and is responsible for 85% of the breakdown of the dermis.  So wear your sunscreen, be gentle with your skin and you will see that  supple and  youthful skin is possible to achieve. 

      

The Epidermis

     The Skin You're In

      The skin is an organ. Your bodies largest organ. And just like all of your vital organs, your skin performs a list of very important task. Our skin works very hard for us. But we often show it very little appreciation. The skin's primary function is protection. It's described as a barrier between you and the outside world. Everyday we come in contact with harmful substances such as chemicals, bacteria and sun exposure.

       Mirror, Mirror On The Wall

      Did you know that your skin is your body's mirror? Some Dermatologists are able to look at the skin and see that our lifestyle is the reason for our unhealthy skin. Whether it be our poor diet, we are emotionally stressed, or our lack of sufficient rest, our skin tells on us. When a Dermatologist sees yellowish or gray skin that is dull and wrinkled, the mirror may be saying " I'm a smoker."  If she sees dryness and allergic reactions, along with acne, the mirror may be saying " I use prescription or illegal drugs." If she sees a constant flushed appearance of  the skin that is dull and dry, the mirror may be saying "  I'm an alcohol drinker." This is not always the case. These skin conditions have various contributors.

      The Epidermis

      Your skin has 3 basic layers. The epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous layer (the fat layer ). Let's start with the epidermis.

      The epidermis is the top, outermost layer of the skin. Think of a sheet of tissue paper, very poor quality tissue paper. The epidermis is thinner than this. It consists of dead skin cells. The dead skin cells shed off everyday. And as they shed, new cells come to the top to take their place. And when skin is new it glows. When we are young it takes around 28 to 30 days for this process to happen. As we age this process slows down. By the time we approach our forties and as we get older this process takes 45 to 50 days. The transformation from young, silky and smooth skin to older, not so silky and not so smooth skin has begun. Dead skin cells are not all bad. They help to hold in moisture and oil which aid in keeping the skin from becoming dehydrated and dry. We'll discuss the difference between the two in a later post.
   

      Melanin

      Ask yourself a question. What's my skin's tone? Would you say you are light, medium, or dark? We were created with the same number of cells that produce this color, but some of us have more melanin in those cells. Melanin is the pigment that gives skin it's color. The tone of your skin will depend on how much melanin is in your cells. At the base of the epidermis, there are cells called melanocytes. They provide protection from the sun. If your ancestors originated from parts of the world that are closer to the equator then you probably have more melanin in your skin. The temperatures are warmer there. God provided more protection against  skin damage from the sun. When we expose our skin to the sun the production of melanin is increased and our skin becomes darker.

      The Fairest Of Them All

      We've all heard of the fairytale Snow White. It was written in 1812, a time when women used pulverized starch for face powder. The phrase " the fairest of them all",  came out of a time when paleness was consider beautiful. The fairest of them all means the palest of them all. And in that era
 " the fairest of them all", (the palest of them all), meant the most beautiful of all. Perhaps when we read this fairytale to our children and grandchildren we should explain this to them. I know I will.

           Back to the mirror on the wall. What do you see?  A fairy princess with no flaws? Me, not so much. So I'll keep working on and try to bring any inner beauty that I may have to the surface. We all have it. Maybe it's like our skin cells. When we are new and young we see things differently and are more forgiving of those around us, so we let go of the dead cells of disappointment or hurt. Then we get older and shedding the cells are not as easy. We want that layer of protection against future damage. I encourage you to bring that beauty within yourself to the surface.  Then you will truly be.......

                                                      The Fairest of Them All.

                         

                

Feedback Friday

       A chemical peel, is a chemical peel, is a chemical peel.        

      Welcome to Feedback Friday. It's that time of the week when I will be answering your questions. I will answer 1 question each Friday. You may ask questions in the comment box or email me at 2monicawheeler@gmail.com. And remember there are no dumb questions. Here we go.

        

      Today's question is from Kelly.

                                     " I am currently going to school to become an Esthetician and I will be taking a chemical peel training class. I will receive a certificate after I have completed the training. My question is, will I be certified with the product line that I received my training from only? Or will I be able to use other lines and still be practicing within the scope of my license once I have graduated?"

           Schools often partner with product line companies in order to offer more advanced training. These companies come to the school and form relationships with the students with hopes that after you graduate you will want to start accounts with their company and use their products in your place of business. This will most likely be the product that you will use while in school so you will be very familiar with it by the time that you graduate.     .    

   .     But lets say you get a job offer from a spa that uses a different line of products. Go ahead and take the job. Certification will be all you need in order to perform chemical peels whether with the company that your school used for the training or another line. Keep in mind that when it comes to chemical peels each product line has their own procedure. 

  

        A chemical peel, is a chemical peel, is a chemical peel. Don't be intimidated by different lines. While in school, one of the foundational and most important things that you should learn is client safety. This will include performing a patch test to make sure that your client doesn't have an allergy to the product, how to apply protective product around the eye area, how the product is applied and removed, and how to handle the product safely.

       Most companies offer product training at no cost once you establish an account with them. There are other companies that offer chemical peel training classes, but if you do not have an established account with them, you will have to pay for the training.

       Ask your school for a copy of the laws of your state. In it you will find the services that you will be able to perform legally. But make sure that you have the training and a full understanding of each of these services before you perform them on a client.

        The most important part of any service is the client consultation form. Have your clients complete the form. And always make sure that you have them sign and date it before you begin the treatment.

         Thank you for the question Kelly.  I hope this helps.

Facts About The Skin.

                            Preserve...Protect...Nourish

   Take a minute and think about your organs. Now, see how many you can list. Of those that you listed, which one is the largest? Did you include your skin in the list? Maybe not, most people don't. If not then you also may not know that the skin is your body's largest organ. Most people never give much thought to their skin until it starts to give them problems. We get a rash, a breakout, or maybe an insect bite and something that we rarely thought about begins to be all that we think about.  

  Skin is so fascinating to me. But it is very complex. And what's amazing is that once you understand how skin works it becomes easy to care. Here are some basic facts about the skin.

     The skin is your largest organ. Alright, did you get that? Now lets start taking care of it. Remember these 3 words...Preserve....Protect....Nourish.  If you are doing anything to your skin that would not fall into one of those 3 categories, then stop doing it.

     The skin is thickest on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. This is why we get calluses instead of blisters. God knew what He was doing didn't He.

     The skin is thinnest around the eyes, especially on the eyelids. This is one reason why most women first begin to see the signs of aging in the eye area. It is easily damaged. Keep eye cream or moisturizer on this area at all times. Wear sunscreen and sunglasses whenever you are in the sun.

     The skin contains one-half of your primary immune cells. So for those of you that think your skin is there to tan so that you can look more attractive, that's not it's purpose. It's there for protection. When your skin is comprised, so is your immune system. 

              Agree to Disagree 

      I can't tell you how many books I've read that say, Healthy skin is slightly moist, smooth, soft and free of lines and wrinkles. I soon realized after I began working in this field that any pigmentation or freckled skin was also low on the list of healthy skin. My primary focus is on preserving, protecting, and nourishing the skin. So when I read what the experts say about how healthy skin should look, I somewhat disagree. Yes it should be slightly moist, smooth and soft. It's the part about free of lines and wrinkles, and freckles that I think is a little too much to ask. How many women take really good care of their skin but are unable to afford cosmetic services or maybe choose not to have them? Sure they have a few fine lines and wrinkles or perhaps a brown spot here and there. I personally know quite a few women like this. And they are some of the most beautiful women I know.

      As an Esthetician, I always felt pulled to look a certain way. So I bleached my freckles, I filled my forehead and crow's feet with Botox. Although  I loved that my crow's feet would disappear, I do not like the way Botox makes me feel. I sometimes would look at women who did not do these things and think to myself, good for her. It has taken me a while but I am now one of those women. I have decided my freckles are just fine, I try to stress less about my crows feet, well I do have a love-hate relationship with them, but we'll work it out. Exfoliation, this is the secret. It keeps my skin smooth and soft. Exfoliation also keeps my fine lines and wrinkles from becoming deep lines and wrinkles. Aging is inevitable. And if our skin shows our age, that's ok. My definition of healthy skin is that it is slightly moist, smooth and soft, un-tanned and free of diseases or disorders.

 

       I Believe......

                                   It's how we treat others. It's showing others that they matter.
 

                                               Kindness and respect, that's true beauty. 

The Beauty Culture Has Begun.

Healthy Verses Beautification

      It's odd to me how the definition of beauty has changed through the ages. And what's even stranger to me, is the fact that no matter how plain or bazaar, we follow right along with it. How about you? Are you trendy or classic?  Is there a particular Age or Era that you feel like you have been snatched accidentally from and landed here in present day? If so, you are not alone.  Most of us have a favorite era. See if one of these appeals to you.

      The Middle Ages is the period when women stopped wearing makeup on their eyes. They only wore it on their cheeks and lips. And for anyone fortunate enough to afford them, fragrant oils were used after bathing. Now for all of you reading this and feel that you can't go out of the house without those smoky eyes, this would not be your era. 

      The Renaissance Era followed closely behind. It was not much different from the Middle Ages except the use of cosmetics and perfumes became more popular. But the use of any cosmetics on the eyes was still discouraged. Not only did they not wear eye makeup, they would shave or tweeze the eyebrows completely so that the forehead looked more prominent. This was supposed to make a woman look more intelligent. Today if you came into my spa and I had my eyebrows shaved, I am sure you would find your way to the door as quickly as possible. During the Renaissance Era, blond hair was a sign of beauty. Bleaching the hair was very popular and still is today. What comes to your mind when you see a woman with blond hair?  Do you automatically see beauty?

      Next was the Age of Extravagance. Of course only women of status were able to enjoy this lifestyle. They took baths in strawberries and milk( strawberries, rich in vitamin C and milk contains lactic acid). The women wore brighter makeup and more of it. They discovered ways to hide skin imperfections, and big hair was the fashion, or I should say high hair was the fashion.

      Last but certainly not least, The Victorian Era. During this era, something that I feel is lost today in our culture was greatly valued..... modesty. From their clothing to hair and makeup the style became more simple. This was also the era when people began realizing that health and beauty go hand in hand.

      This brings me to a question from yesterday's blog.

" In what ways can we help our clients to realize the importance of healthy skin as opposed to beautification? This is not only a great question but an important one as well.

      Most women would love to be able to put a little Burt's Bees on their lips and give one or two swipes with a mascara wand and be out the door. But because of the condition of their skin it seems impossible. They need help from you to be able to understand how to have healthy skin. Without that knowledge, they feel their only choice is to cover with makeup. You have to give them facts. Don't just sell products and services. Teach your clients. Tell them why and how. When it makes sense to them then they will realize the importance of healthy skin and soon see that healthy skin is beautiful skin. Fair skin is healthy or your natural skin tone is healthy. Overly-tanned skin is unhealthy.  Until we see crow's feet, wrinkles, age spots or sagging skin, we just keep on with the tanning ritual. 85% of skins damage is from UV exposure. Until we see our pores getting larger, more blackheads and rough skin texture, we may not understand the importance of cleansing our face before bed.

      Educate your clients and guide them through the process. Don't just sell band-aids. Raise the bar and show them that you care. After that, the choice is theirs.

            The Twentieth, Twenty First, And Beyond

      Each decade has had it's own style, but when it comes to skincare the twentieth century gave us Retin-A, Botox, chemical peels and cosmetic procedures. So the struggle between natural and chemical begins. But what is great about all of this is that we have the choice. 

      So is there a particular Age or Era that appeals to you? If so, be patient it will eventually roll back around. As the saying goes... what's old is new. But try to remember,                         

    

  .                       HEALTHY SKIN NEVER GOES OUT OF STYLE!

The Genesis of Esthetics

Skincare....... A bit of history.

Esthetics, a branch of science that deals with the overall health and well-being of the skin. What brought you to my blog today? Do you or someone you know need help dealing with skin issues?

After reading today's blog you may wonder why you would need to know about the history of skin care. This blog was created to educate you about your skin and how it works so that one day you will be able to answer your own questions and those of your family and friends. I welcome your questions and I will answer them in my next day's post.

Now let's get this thing started.

          Earlier civilizations practiced skincare therapies more for self-preservation and disease prevention than for attractiveness.

Egyptians

    It all began with the ancient Egyptians. They were the first to use these therapies along with materials that we use today for personal beautification. Henna, a dye obtained from the powdered leaves of the mignonette tree was used in ancient Egypt for body art and on fingernails. Today, henna is used as a reddish hair dye and in tattooing.

Hebrews

The Hebrews used grooming rituals because they believed that their bodies were gifts to be cared for. Hebrews utilized the land around them for maintenance and cleansing of the skin, hair and teeth. Olive and grape seed oil was used to moisten and protect the skin. Today olive oil is found in many products including cleansers, body scrubs, lotions, moisturizers and even masks. Grape seed oil is a great moisturizer for the skin and is used in massage and aroma therapy. Pomegranate and myrrh were the Hebrew's most useful grooming aids. A tonic was made from myrrh and used as mouthwash. Pomegranate was used when the Hebrews were in need of an antiseptic. Today we know that vitamins A, C, and E are needed for healthy skin. A single glass of pomegranate juice has forty percent of the daily requirements of these vitamins. It's antiseptic properties aid in treating acne. Today myrrh is used in skincare products to soothe cracked and chapped skin. It can also reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Greeks

The Greek word kosmetikos from which we get the word cosmetics, means skilled in the art of cosmetics. The Greeks used herbs and olive oil to regulate body temperature. They would mix sand with the olive oil and apply to their skin for protection from the sun.

Romans

 The Romans were famous for their baths. After bathing they would apply rich olive oil to their skin. The Romans also made fragrances from flowers, saffron and almonds. Today almond and saffron is used in some skincare compounds because they are rich in vitamins

A and B, these ingredients leave the skin soft and smooth. Cleopatra bathed in milk to soften her skin. We now know that milk contains lactic acid which is used in skincare for dry skin types.

Asians

 The Asians would rub a mixture of sap from wild trees, beeswax, and egg whites onto their nails. The mixture used would depend on whether they wanted red or black nails. Japanese geishas removed their body hair by wrapping a thread around each hair and pulling it out. Today this technique is called threading.

Africans

 Africans used the twigs from the mignonette tree (remember this is where henna comes from) as toothpicks. The twigs prevented oral and tooth disease because of it's antiseptic quality.

   Wow! Who knew people were so smart back in the day? I guess it's true what they say... Necessity is the mother of all inventions. Ancient people around the world used these materials. And many are still used today. As time goes by, self-preservation and disease prevention slowly begin to take a back seat to beautification and adornment as we see it reflected in popular culture of today. That's where trends and styles play a huge role in the choices we make. Are you a trendy chic or do you have your own classic style. Maybe you will find out tomorrow.

Introduction to SKINtentional

Hello,

Welcome to SKINtentional!
My name is Monica Wheeler and I am a Certified Professional Skin Care Therapist. Simply put I am an Esthetician. A term you may or may not be familiar with. 9 years ago I was the latter. I had no idea what an Esthetician was. Soon after discovering that this was an actual trade within an industry that I had worked in through sales with well known cosmetic lines, at the age of forty-one, I decide to go back to school. And in April of 2007 I graduated with a certificate in Esthetics. I became an Esthetician.
          So now I know what an Esthetician is, but I soon realized that I had no idea what it meant to be an Esthetician. I realized that in order to become a more advanced clinician I would need to take continuing my education very seriously. So I dedicated myself to continually improving my knowledge of the best products, ingredients, formulations and treatment options available.
          A major problem for skincare professionals and concerned individuals alike is how to sift through the maze of sometimes confusing, even conflicting skin care information. The media and the internet are full of information on skin health issues. But in most cases it's difficult to guarantee that the information you receive is valid. With my knowledge and expertise, I will guide and help you choose which professional services and products are right for you.
          If you want to educate yourself about your skin and it's needs, then you must decide to become intentional about making the right decisions that lead to healthy, beautiful skin.
Become SKINtentional!
          Now get ready for an interesting, learning  experience. Each blog will be loaded with fascinating information that will add to your overall skincare education, one building block at a time. Your first class will begin tomorrow.

God bless,
Monica Wheeler